In a country brimming with excellent cuisine, California’s fuss-free style of fine dining is having an unlikely culinary moment.
Our correspondents are traveling the globe, sharing stories that examine the complex relationship between the West Coast and the rest of the world.Almost overnight, Singapore was flush with seasoned chefs and front-of-the-house staff who honed their skills in locales like Beverly Hills, New York, Las Vegas and Miami. It was the first time living overseas for many.
Being ethnic Chinese, the family blended in with the other working class Chinese immigrants in Rosemead and the rest of the San Gabriel Valley. Tang’s parents worked at a sweatshop making garments. It was up to him to put dinner on the table for everyone by the time he was 12. He learned simple Cantonese dishes — bell peppers stuffed with fish paste, beef and broccoli, steamed fish — from watching the now defunct local ethnic broadcaster, Channel 18.
At the same time, an up-and-coming Singaporean company behind a series of popular cocktail and oyster bars named Jigger & Pony was looking for a chef to helm a new modern American-Italian restaurant at a waterfront space with stellar views of Marina Bay Sands. Tang applied, moved to Singapore and opened Caffe Fernet in 2018.Born in South Korea, Christian Morales was raised by a Mexican abuela in East L.A.
Tang encountered another problem too: how his newly adopted Asia saw his native home. When Rosemead was proposed, Jigger & Pony’s PR consultants were skeptical, less because of COVID-19 than cultural perceptions: Singaporeans, they said, expect burgers and barbecue from their American restaurants and would struggle to understand California cuisine.
Chefs work over the flames at Rosemead restaurant. At right, slow-roasted lamb shoulder with sesame flatbread and tahini sauce. On the side are house-made Lebanese pickles, pistachio tapenade and herb and mint salad.
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