Much like with food, salt can coax unexpected flavors out of drinks.
, and those at the front line of the cocktail revival couldn’t get enough of other amari—the family of Italian products that translate literally to “bitter.” And while many of us were shooting from the hip and experimenting with salt in various drinks, we came to learn that the addition of salt could transform a drink that depended on one of these liqueurs.
These are phenomena of taste in the technical sense—meaning that they are about things that happen on our tongue. It’s common knowledge today that most of what we talk about when we talk about “flavor” lies a few inches above that, in our noses. Through our olfactory apparatus, we detect the volatile compounds that make food what it is to us—some of which can even read to us as “salty” without any actual sodium.
This is because we taste salt in a very big way. Food scientists sometimes refer to this as a “hedonic” response—the idea that salt simply tastesin a way that other triggers don’t. Tasting salt on your tongue is so intense, it’s almost like a bright light blinding us for an instant. This is why salt has also been used at various times in human history toother flavors.
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