Here's why J. Kenji López-Alt thinks the all-aluminum Whirley Pop is the best popcorn maker (after testing it against another Whirley Pop and a saucepan).
love of buttered popcorn has never been a secret
. It runs deeper than a bottomless jumbo tub, free refills and all. It's my favorite food. I've tested every imaginable brand of popcorn and popcorn-popping product I could get my hands on. The Whirley Pop is positively magical. It doesn't look like much. It's a thin aluminum pot with a six-quart capacity and a snap-on lid with spider leg-like extensions that stick out into the pan beneath it. In the wooden handle is a little crank. As you turn the crank, the spider legs spin around inside the pot, agitating kernels of popcorn as they heat. So what does it do that shaking a pot on the stovetop can't accomplish? Oh boy. So, so much.. This is important.
. What is a positive boon in most cooking situations is a handicap when it comes to popcorn. With a thicker pan, you spend a good deal of time heating up the metal before your popcorn starts cooking in earnest. I cooked one-ounce of popcorn in three different vessels: a stainless steel disk-bottomed Whirley Pop, an all-aluminum Whirley Pop, and a standard tri-ply steel and aluminum saucepan.
As far as yield goes, the Whirley Pop also comes out on top. I cooked a half-dozen one-ounce batches of dried popcorn in a Whirley Pop and in a saucepan. Once popped, I sorted through each batch, setting aside any kernels that were unpopped or half-popped. On average, the Whirley Pop ended up with a half kernel per batch unpopped while the saucepan left four and a half kernels unpopped.
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