Why it's harder than ever to run a restaurant in Los Angeles

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Why it's harder than ever to run a restaurant in Los Angeles
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It’s a cutthroat business that fells even the most promising and acclaimed restaurants. Now, restaurant owners say an already tough business is starting to feel prohibitively expensive.

Chef Shirley Chung hasn’t given herself a paycheck in more than a year. After she and her husband, Jimmy, spent more than $200,000 out of pocket to open Ms. Chi in Culver City in September they realized they needed to funnel any money the restaurant was pulling in to keep up with payroll, equipment and rent.

The financial challenges that Chung faces are common in the restaurant world, which has long contended with notoriously slim margins, fickle diners and fluctuating ingredient costs. It’s a cutthroat business that fells even the most promising and acclaimed restaurants — this year alone, Fiona on Fairfax, Native in Santa Monica, Spring and B.S. Taqueria downtown and Simone in the Arts District have all closed.

Part of the problem: The two biggest expenses for restaurants owners — rent and payroll — have risen steeply in recent years. “The dishwasher is one of our most valued employees and someone we cannot pay what they deserve because we have other employees making $500 a day,” she said, “and not to mention the taxes that we have to pay on their tips.”

At the same time, restaurant rents are also on the rise. In Santa Monica, commercial real estate is leasing for $7.50 per square foot , up from $4.50 in 2010, according to real estate firm CBRE. In Koreatown, during that same period, prices doubled to $6 per square foot ; in downtown Los Angeles, they rose to $2.95 from $2.19 per square foot .“It’s different, depending on the area, but we’re definitely seeing a lot more turnover these days,” said Johnny Choi, a senior associate at CBRE.

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