Preserved lemons offer a punch of citrus and umami flavor that ordinary lemons can't match.
And yet, despite making their way into some American pantries 40-odd years ago, they have retained their aura of exoticism in the United States. Admony laughs as she tells the story of how, when she moved to New York in 1999 to work at Tabla, she showed her Tunisian-cum-Israeli style of preserved lemons to the restaurant's celebrated chef, Floyd Cardoz—in her estimation, a master of spices—and his kitchen staff"had no clue; they had never seen them before.
While you're most likely to find preserved lemons in traditional preparations—Algerian couscous dishes fragrant with olives and raisins, Indian curries, Tunisian chickpea stews, and, yes, the Moroccan chicken tagine—they're a worthy addition to a wide spectrum of meals.Depending on your neighborhood, or how far you're willing to travel, you can likely buy a jar of preserved lemons ready to eat. It's just as easy, however, to make them yourself.
. Admony notes that she's"even seen some chefs make a sous vide version in 12 hours," which, she laughs, isn't as good as the real thing, but certainly works in a pinch.preserved , the cured lemons will last in the back of your fridge for up to a year. And a little goes a very long way to adding that touch of umami and an alluring depth to your cooking.
You don't need to become an expert at couscous or find room in your kitchen for a stoneware tagine to make use of preserved lemons. Pluck one from the jar, rinse it off, and add it to everything that calls for lemon—and everything that doesn't.
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