Here's what's more important to factor into your skin-care routine.
Instead of classifying skin as a mix of oily and dry, it would be more accurate to describe skin by noting the presence of bacteria like propionibacterium and staphylococcus. "There’s a whole ecosystem of bacteria and enzymes on your skin, and we can measure them more easily than we could just a few years ago," says Bowe, who studies the skin’s microbial ecosystem and wrote a book on it, Dirty Looks: The Secret to Beautiful Skin .
There are already ways to promote healthy bacteria counts and enzyme levels on your skin. For starters, sleep more. Swap harsh scrubs for gentle chemical exfoliators. Use creamy cleansers with moisturizing ingredients, like hyaluronic acid or glycerin. Eat more Greek yogurt and kefir, and pile your plate with dark, leafy greens . And chill out or meditate for 10 minutes daily.
Until you can 23andMe your skin-care routine, you can sleuth it out: "One reason the old skin-care categories don’t cut it is that people misdiagnose themselves all the time," says Downie. One of the most common mistakes is thinking you’re oily when you’re actually dry with breakouts. "Salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide will dry you out, so you can’t use a lot of over-the-counter options for breakouts.
Pay attention to how your skin changes throughout the month. "If it gets oily when you’re stressed or during your period, use a salicylic or glycolic acid cleanser — and why not exercise more?" says Downie, explaining that that evens out stress levels. "And get more sleep." Of course, it’s a lot easier to figure out why your skin is acting the way it is with the help of a dermatologist. "Your skin may react differently than my skin, which is where customizable formulas can help," says Gohara. "But everything you’re experiencing is just one part of your skin’s bigger picture. What’s really going on is much more complex than checking an oily- or dry-skin box.
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