Most restaurant kitchens are equipped with gas stoves. Changing them to induction is not simple, but many prominent chefs are taking the leap.
, in part because heat transference occurs only when the pan is in contact with the electromagnetic cooktop. The way flavors are developed — such as oil singed as flames lick up and around the pan — are virtually unique to stir-fry cooking, especially those dishes that call for wok hei, a kind of charred quality that occurs when ingredients are tossed in a well-seasoned wok.
Back in 2008, when the Dirt Candy debuted in the East Village, induction cooktops were more fragile. The glass surfaceoccasionally break, she recalls, and you quickly learned not to crank the electromagnetic burners too high lest your vegetables take a turn toward the dark side. But the benefits were obvious: She no longer suffered scars or burns, because induction heat is transferred to the magnetized pan only, not to the stovetop or to pot handles.
Then there’s the cost to upgrade a building to provide enough power to run an electric kitchen. In a market such as Pittsburgh, an operator with a small restaurant could probably get the necessary upgrades for $10,000, all in, Galarza said. But in more expensive cities, the costs could quickly multiply. Richard Young, director of education at Frontier Energy’sin San Ramon, Calif., said he has been trying to upgrade the electrical system in his early 20th-century home in Oakland.
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