You're either a cake doughnut person or a yeast one. The end.
, the shop he and Kamozawa run in Stockton, NJ. A cake doughnut, on the other hand, is made from what’s essentially cake batter, and gets its lift from chemical leaveners . Ideally the inside is moist and crumbly, and either dense like a muffin or fluffy like birthday cake. “A cake doughnut is much more tender,” says Talbot, “whereas a yeast doughnut has more chew.”A selection of Curiosity Doughnuts.
Cake doughnuts, on the other hand, are more thoroughly American. According to Mullins, cake doughnuts first appeared in US cookbooks in the 1830s, around the same time that baking soda and baking powder first became commercially available. In other words, as soon as there was a way to make doughnuts without waiting for the yeast to rise, Americans were doing it.
Another thing to consider: Talbot argues he “has yet to have a nice, moist cake doughnut,” barring his own “new-fashioned” doughnut, which he makes using a cooked paste of milk and flour to better retain moisture. This may be an exaggeration—Underwest’s doughnuts, for one, are plenty moist—but he’s right that cake doughnuts are more likely to be dense and heavy, to stick to the roof of your mouth.
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