Is Chicago on the cusp of becoming the next national barbecue hotspot? We have the talent. We have the unique regional style and the new-school disruptors. The one big thing standing in the way? City food codes, writes Nick Kindelsperger.
“It’s the hardest way to cook barbecue, but it produces the best results,” Yim said.
Offset smokers range in size, but all feature a cylindrical chamber where the meat rests on racks, along with a separate firebox on the side where the wood burns. Smoke and heat travel from the firebox into the chamber, and then out a chimney.
Chicago’s Department of Public Health requires smokers to be certified for indoor use, a process that can cost upward of six figures and is generally not something manufacturers bother with for offset smokers, which are primarily used — and designed for — outdoor use. For ventilation, city regulations call for an exhaust hood to span the length of an offset smoker.
After testing so many different kinds of smokers, Goldwyn likens smokers to different types of music. “I would say the all-wood smokers are more complex, and when done properly, it’s like a huge orchestra,” Goldwyn said. “A pellet smoker is more like a string quartet. It’s beautiful and elegant, but not as loud.”
I’ve eaten a lot of barbecue over the past six months, and Knox Ave Barbecue is the one I think about the most. It currently has no scheduled pop-up events, but keep an eye on its Instagram for its return.Brisket, pork belly, and beef sausage at the pop-up restaurant Umamicue, which operates at Spilt Milk, at Fullerton Avenue and California Avenue in Chicago.Charles Wong, the owner of Umamicue, serves his expertly smoked meats with numerous Chinese and Vietnamese components.
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