Defining power in fashion: A new exhibit explores the subject through pop culture, politics, and sex.
Who or what holds power in fashion? When do clothes stop being clothes and start to become symbols of strength, defiance, and resistance? We’ve long debated the meaning of power dressing in fashion; it’s a complicated subject. The wordin and of itself is complex and multipronged. It can be positive or negative, used to describe a saint or a tyrant.
The exhibition is divided into five sections: military uniforms, status dressing, suits, resistance, and sex. There are 70 pieces on display from the museum’s permanent collection, among them MAGA caps and pussy hats; T-shirts from the Women’s March and the Black Lives Matter movement; and the shrunken Thom Browne suit worn by LeBron James during the 2018 NBA playoffs.
McClendon is also quick to point out that the five themes presented in the exhibition are not the only modes for defining power in fashion. She notes that, historically, fabric and the making of it has been a symbol of power, including “during the Indian independence movement when the khadi was held up as an emblem of power and Indian autonomy from British rule. ‘Power Mode’ is not intended to be a comprehensive view of every garment that might be considered powerful.
The exhibition comes at the right time. For the past few years, with the election of Donald Trump, the climate crisis, and the rise of a new feminist movement, protest and resistance dressing has become a mainstay in the zeitgeist. As McClendon points out, “We are on the cusp not only of a new decade but also a new presidential cycle. In the current social-political climate, punctuated by pussy hats and MAGA hats, people are becoming increasingly aware of the social power of clothing.
McClendon hopes to untangle, even just a bit, the various meanings of power dressing for visitors to the show. She also hopes they will gain a greater understanding of the power dynamics inherent in the clothing they wear. “Fashion is a form of social language. It is the way we make our bodies socially visible and understandable. We are always sending messages with our clothing.
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