Sunday brunch luxury—weekday ease.
There are a lot of things I’ve really missed during the pandemic. I’d classify brunch as a thing I onlytoexistential crisis, and so on—admittedly even all of that sounds like a dream right now, but I can’t help but wonder...What if we can do brunch better post-COVID-19? My specific idea of doing brunch better is for all of us to just make Epi contributor Christian Reynoso’sYes, after the year of cooking at home that we’ve had, I’m out here rudely asking you to chop another onion.you ask.
The thing is, this dish is exquisitely simple to prepare—arguably simpler than managing to master the rolled-out-of-bed-chic brunch outfit and braving the crowds. “When I used to work at this restaurant in San Francisco, we served something similar to this for brunch. It was one of those dishes that was just shockingly popular, but it’s actually super replicable at home,” Reynoso told me over the phone.
Part of that simplicity comes from the fact that the dish is done entirely on the stovetop. You don’t have to bother with transferring your skillet to the oven, and it’s easy to peek over and monitor your eggs. When I told Reynoso that I get anxious about these sorts of egg dishes because I find that the eggs don’t cook evenly, he told me not to be afraid to baby them: Lift the lid and check them periodically. Rotate the pan if one egg is simmering faster than the others.
The narrow list of ingredients also makes things easy, and each item serves a distinct and powerful purpose. First, let’s talk about the greens: Reynoso likes mustard greens best for the dish: They have some of the sturdy texture that you’d get from something like kale or chard, holding up nicely against the richness of the cream, but they also add a peppery quality that shines in this dish. I was able to find them at my corner store; if you don’t have any luck, you can substitute arugula.
It’s a dish that tells you to stay in your pajamas, to skip going out for breakfast, and to save the elegance for your eggs. Some day you’ll be able to invite your friends over . Crowd them around your dining table, plop this stunner in the middle of the table along with crusty bread and a big pot of coffee, and learn how to talk to people that aren’t your
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