Holding a Goo Goo cluster, you start to wonder where candy went wrong—when did candy became square
in the heart of Nashville for over 100 years. My instinct, like any describing the storied past of a much-loved product, is to say that in all this time, the Original Goo Goo hasn’t really changed at all, that the genius at its inception insured it against any upgrade. But what do I know? I didn’t have my first Goo Goo cluster until I was 25, I’m not from the South, and certainly don’t remember a time when they only cost a nickel.
layered on top of each other, dipped in chocolate—is one of the most expertly engineered confections ever produced. Simple and ordinary though it may sound for a candy bar, it was the first to mix these ingredients together. The competition would spend at least a decade reverse engineering the Goo Goo before releasing candy bars like
and Baby Ruth to the world. And, unlike so many imitators, you get the sense that the ingredients are actually nougat and caramel, not ultra-refined syrup spun into unctuous, over-sweet copycats.But Goo Goos are not great just because they did it first. Something about how each layer of ingredient is drizzled above the next makes it so that each flavor is tasted on its own and in harmony with the rest.
That feeling is, in no small part, also due to the Goo Goo’s shape. It is round, yet inconsistently sculpted, each one unique like a cavity snowflake. It’s almost as though it was intended by nature, and the rectangular candy bar shape was nothing more than the product of an increasingly mechanized world that favored efficiency over all else. Holding a Goo Goo cluster, you start to wonder where candy went wrong, when candy becameThe Whole Hog Goo Goo Cluster by Pat Martin at Martin’s Bar-B-Que.
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