Marco Panconesi, Frederikke Schmidt and Chris Donovan discuss launching their own brands, their design philosophies and how they're navigating the pandemic: [Sponsored by polimoda]
Sponsored StoryAuthor:Fashionista CoLabUpdated:Apr 27, 2020Original:Apr 27, 2020Most paths to success — at least the most interesting ones — are not linear. They're filled with diversions and risks that inevitably lead to the big goal, the highest honor, or — in the case of the three Polimoda alumni below — the launch of their own fashion brands.
"As a child, fashion or jewelry design was not my dream," says Panconesi, who once hoped to become an archaeologist. "I came from a family of characters each with their own interest in craft; for example, my grandfather was a teacher professionally, but in his own time was an avid woodworker. He passed on a respect for materials and a real love of craftsmanship to me when I was growing up, as did a cousin who would teach me artistic methods like gold leafing and wax sculpting.
Still, despite his ability to create within the other established brands, Panconesi's new eponymous label stands out from all his other work. "When I started Panconesi, I wanted to approach jewelry making in a different way, speaking less about karat, cut, grade," he explains. "I think there is a way to speak about jewelry outside of costume or fashion jewelry — there is an experimental space in between.
"I applied my geekiness to the anatomy of the foot and have spent most of my career trying to understand how I can optimize the experience in high heels," says the designer who, after working for several other high-end shoe lines, went out on her own in 2016. Finding success within the footwear industry is no easy feat, but Schmidt and Roccamore are making it work by keeping the customer experience front of mind. The brand offers one-on-one shopping appointments, for instance. Last year alone, the brand sold 10,000 pairs. "Listen to your customers and take all feedback seriously," she advises. "Do not think you know better, be humble and listen to everything they say.
"At 50 I was diagnosed with prostate cancer. It was caught early and cured but it changed my priorities," says Donovan. "This passion for shoes was too important. I knew if I didn't do something with my designs I would regret it the rest of my life. I saw a two-day class with the designer Aki Choklat in NYC and decided to have him look at my work to see if I had any talent.
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