In 'Chop Suey Nation,' author Ann Hui explores the immigration stories behind Canada’s small-town Chinese restaurants
So I sat at a table near the front of the room, watching as he hurried back and forth between the kitchen and the dining room. The dining room itself was huge, split into two levels, with about 30 tables. The walls were white with green wainscoting. The door frames and trims were painted red. In the middle of the room was one long table with over a dozen people seated around it, mostly seniors having their lunch. A handful of other families and couples were there too.
He’d been a high school science teacher in China, but when he arrived in Vancouver, he didn’t have the luxury of going back to school to get the credentials he needed to continue teaching. He needed to earn money right away to support his family. So he went into the restaurant business. “We made the right decision,” he said. “I’m satisfied with my life right now. My kids have grown up, my business is steady, and I have peace of mind.”
So he started braising his ribs, cooking them slowly under low heat until they were soft and tender, falling off the bone. They were an immediate hit. I decided to order my own container of Newfoundland chow mein, to go. As I walked out with the Styrofoam bowl, Mr. Yu waved goodbye. He nodded at the bag in my hands. “You won’t find anything like this in Vancouver,” he said.“I got this for you,” he said, handing me a small personalized pizza box. I opened the lid to find a pizza covered with a white sauce.
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