Often treated with untouchable reverence, the rich, sweet fig is best paired with the strong flavors of pickles, kimchi and browned butter.
When it comes to fruit, I’m a meddler. I appreciate the beauty, simplicity and taste of a raw piece of fruit eaten out of hand, but as a pastry-prioritized person, I appreciate the skill of transforming it into a new dish to better balance what properties it brings to the table. Figs may be the fruit most representative of this viewpoint. While I understand both sides of the equally maligned and celebrated “figs on a plate” ethos of California cooking, it is, I hate to admit, not for me.
Figs are often paired with other fruit or used in sweet applications, but I wanted to see how they played in more overtly savory dishes beyond a salad of greens with goat cheese. Green varieties such as Tiger Stripe, Kadota or Calimyrna are delicious, but they’re often a little too intensely rich for me when ripe — like nature’s version of thepopular on TikTok. Sometimes, though, you can get under-ripe specimens in your basket that taste only of barely sweetened water.
For purple fig varieties such as Black Missions or Turkish — my favorite — I opted to go the more traditionally sweet route but I used more lean ingredients to balance out their richness. In Kitty Travers’ “La Grotta Ices” cookbook, she makes a sorbet of figs mixed with watermelon, because the figs “give body and sap to the watery” melon.
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