Daily News | Made-to-order flour tortillas are the center of Taco Heart
“I never saw a Kaiser roll in Texas,” the breakfast sandwich-loving Wheedan lamented. “But I soon came to understand that the flour tortilla is their bread. It’s a soulful expression of love and place…And when I had my first chorizo and egg taco atI’ve long been partial to the earthier flavors of fresh corn tortillas because of my steady exposure to restaurants in South Philly’s large Mexican community, whose immigration has largely come from central regions of Mexico where masa is king.
I was a fan of the hearty Migas Maximas tacos whose eggs are laced with crunchy chips, jalapeño, queso and sausage, but also the broccoli, bacon, egg and cheese taco — a Wheedan favorite that offers a hint of veg-forward virtue, but which other Texans pointedly told me is “not usual.” And those puffy chips merit your attention. They’re made from raw masa dropped into the fryer and emerge like the love child of a tortilla and a wonton chip, with craggy, heat-bubbled surfaces that grab Taco Heart’s chunky fresh guacamole, milky white queso , or his trio of salsas, including an earthy guajillo, a tangy verde and a zippy puree of jalapeños and garlic.
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