A look back at Times critics' reviews of Mori Onodera's sushi over the decades.
this week, wrote about Onodera in 2018 after he started a tenure behind the counter at Shiki in Beverly Hills:
“Mostly there is Onodera, and after the first piece he nestles onto your serving plate, a slash of Japanese sea bream on a narrow pillar of body-temperature rice, you understand: softness not quite collapsing into richness, a breath of acid, a lick of salt from the kelp in which it has been marinated, a fine, searing filament of heat that vanishes as quickly as it appears — this is what sushi devotees are looking for when they save up their nickels, a definitive experience that exists only for...
“There is a slice from a Hokkaido octopus tentacle, girthy as an oak tree, with the kind of striations of texture you may associate with rare prime rib; wasabi-zapped Spanish mackerel; and, a kind of sea bream, briefly charred over a fire before it is made into sushi.
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