Don Guerra, a leader of the local-grain movement in Tucson, is challenging others to reimagine craft baking with an eye toward its Latino and Indigenous roots.
The July sun was barely up, but the heat was already inching well above comfortable. Don Guerra seemed unfazed, though, as if the desert had long ago settled in his bones. He had been moving briskly since 4 a.m. to the clanking soundtrack of an integrated loader, the stiff canvas conveyor belt that sends raw torpedoes of pain au levain, sourdough bread, onto the decks of his four-level oven at Barrio Bread.
In 2014, Guerra joined a campaign to revive the grain led by Native Seeds/Search, a seed bank in Tucson whose offerings are collected from the Southwest region. Guerra helped persuade Arizona growers like BKW Farms to give it a chance by promising to buy part of the harvest for Barrio Bread.
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