CookingWithParis, which drops today on Netflix, is a fever dream we do not want to wake up from
Photo: KIT KARZEN/NETFLIX Paris Hilton descends down a foggy spiral staircase, operatic music blaring. She’s in full glam, wearing a sheer-paneled white gown. As the fog fades and the California sun shines on Hilton through the window, there’s a sudden cut to her struggling to pull out a grocery cart. Once her cart is settled, a masked Hilton casually enters the Los Angeles Eataly as if she is a normal person shopping at Eataly.
After over 20 years in the public eye, Cooking With Paris is finally an outlet that lets Hilton be her true self in front of cameras: a dramatic, childlike, and confident extension of her exaggerated, performatively clueless persona on The Simple Life. Unlike the rural setting she was thrown into in the early 2000s, Hilton is in her own world. It is a very pink, very glittery, and very expensive world — and this time, she’s in control of it.
The inaccessible and seemingly impossible wealth of a Hilton should be infuriating. In Holly Golightly cosplay, Hilton buys truffles that cost $1,000 per pound, then 23-karat edible gold flakes to put on top of onion rings without a second thought. Unfortunately, Cooking With Paris is so soothing in its escapist, anticlimactic-but-in-a-good-way quality that the part of my brain that wants to scream “Eat the rich!” took a nap.
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