Dominic Pellegrino, who's been working at Astor Place Hairstylists for 40 years, makes the best soppressata you can’t buy. chrisecrowley reports
Checking out this year’s crop of soppresatta.Food nerds love to wax on about the romance of the artisan, that person who is singularly devoted to the craft of cooking, of creating something with their hands, always prioritizing deliciousness over profits.
Frank Ribecca, the manager at the barbershop, tells me he wasn’t surprised when he learned about Pellegrino’s hobby. “We’re. He’s from the town over in Italy from where my parents come from,” he says. “My grandparents, also, would have their garden, make their own soppressata, gabagool, the sausage, prosciutto — Dom’s got that touch for it.”Calabria Pork Store
: “I said, ‘Taste this. What do you think?’” The chef was thrilled. Could they get some? Alas, no. “I was like, ‘It’s from my barber.’ He got a kick out of that.”Some friends, like Astor Place’s owner, Jonathan Trichter, have tried to convince Pellegrino to sell at least some of this product. “I would absolutely back him,” Trichter says, “but I don’t think he’d be interested.”
The smell in the room does transport you. There is pork and spice and some smoke. Close your eyes and you could be in a curing room in pastoral Italy — at least until a car blaring Bad Bunny drives by and you remember you’re in the Bronx. And thank God you’re in the Bronx, where great food is everywhere: maafe prepared by a neighbor, originally from Mali, who lives around the corner; pastelillos made with sand crabs caught in Puerto Rico.
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