The key is to whip it. Really.
But back to brownies. Ribboning is crucial to desserts that are light and airy. Brownies, of course, are the opposite. I recently started to doubt the effect of ribboning in brownies; in a dessert whose whole reason for being is its density and richness, who cares what the eggs do?For one batch of brownies, I melted butter and chocolate together, whisked in the sugar and then the eggs, added the flour, and baked—the standard technique.
Unless they were offered side-by-side with the second batch. These held a beautiful, lofty shape, noticeably taller than the first. Their crinkled tops were lighter in color, even a bit shiny. And the interior? It was irresistibly creamy—miles away from batch number one. So: points to the ribbon stage. As in anything involving a structure of aerated eggs, a little delicacy is called for here—you don't want them to deflate. Use a wide bowl and fold the ribboned eggs in gently. When you fold in the flour, do this gently, too—use a wide, flat spatula, and drag it toward you through the batter, lifting it fully out of the bowl each time you do.
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