Craving these now
You know that fried disc with a sprinkle of scallions and a not-so-subtle dash of MSG that you often get at the Chinese restaurant? It’s a little soggy from oil but still has that oozy crunch? Well, that’s what most people in America perceive to be scallion pancakes. Sorry dudes,In my childhood in Taiwan in the late 80s, scallion pancakes were as ubiquitous as a slice on New York City street corners.
My mom didn’t give up on The Scallion Pancake because she wanted to eat them, too. Many long distance calls were placed to my grandmother. How is the dough made? What’s the ratio of scallions to dough? What kind of fat is used? What’s the technique when you fry them? The big reveal was: The dough is a mixture of all-purpose flour and boiling water and it needs to be soft and slightly yielding like your thighs. The dough should be brushed with lard, but lard wasn’t easy to find in our suburban grocery store, so my mom used vegetable oil. A few large pinches of scallions are enough because too much would make the dough soggy. When frying the pancakes, flip them constantly and try to hit the edges of the pancakes against the pan to help the layers separate.
So, I recommend you make these pancakes. They're the "greatest recipe of all time," after all. You don’t have to eat them entirely in one-sitting, but you won’t be judged if you do. Wrap any uncooked pancakes individually in plastic wrap and freeze them. The next time you really crave an appetizer with your Chinese take-out, just grab one from the freezer, thaw, and fry in the time it takes the delivery to get to your door.
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