The Hollywood Reporter reviews the reopened chinoiserie legend that lured stars James Dean, Ava Gardner, Lana Turner and Humphrey Bogart and offers Taiwanese-cuisine hits and great drinks.
Resurrecting a classic restaurant is tricky business. Too much fealty to the past may result in tone-deaf earnestness; too much irreverence risks alienating nostalgists. West Hollywood's now-80-year-old Formosa Cafe, born as an arch confection, had been betrayed by a previous renovation and management cycle. Now the preservation-minded hospitality group led by Bobby Green has completed a commendable two-year, $2.4 million effort to commendable effect.
David Kuo of Santa Monica's Little Fatty has been brought in to rethink the Formosa's Chinese American food through a modern Taiwanese lens. It's astute; the place's name, after all, references the island state, not the mainland. Once upon a less-worldly time, the Formosa advertised “Cantonese dishes for the gourmet” and “American dishes for the particular.”
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