'The Los Angeles I know is still inextricably connected to its past, and that past is filled with bread.'
Pan dulce from El Gallo Bakery. Photo: Annie Wells/Los Angeles Times via Getty Images In East Los Angeles, three generations of families have been able to share the same pan dulce from the same panadería; El Gallo Bakery has been part of the neighborhood for 70 years. In Boyle Heights, one neighborhood west, La Mascota has filled the bellies of local residents since 1952.
Cities that undergo sweeping demographic and economic change become two distinct places: the city as it exists in the collective memory of its longtime residents and the new one that’s being forged. The image of Los Angeles that has ruled the public imagination for the better part of the past decade — a city that has no discernible features beyond Hollywood, Venice, and health-conscious food havens — is not one I know.
One of my favorite neighborhood gems is an unassuming panadería called La Flor de Michoacan, which also serves as a carnicería, taquería, and grocery store. It’s sandwiched between a liquor store and a family-owned shoe-repair shop and has the tiniest, most inconvenient parking lot. That’s fine, I think, because most of its customers still live in the immediate neighborhood.
For that entire year, Sundays never really felt like they belonged to me, but I still looked forward to the promise of carby goodness.
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